BREAKING NEWS
HOW TO: Test your starter circuit
Start with the bike on the center stand with side stand up and the transmission in neutral. You will also want the ignition switch turned to on and the kill switch turned to on. The numbers in the picture coincide with the steps listed below.
1. Test the voltage at the battery. It should read at least 12.5 volts. Charge and retest as needed.
2. Using an old screwdriver, short across the two large terminals at the starter solenoid. This will bypass the solenoid and allow the starter to crank the engine. If the starter doesn't crank, perform a continuity test between the negative battery terminal and the engine case. If you read no resistance (or almost no resistance), repair or replace the starter. Otherwise, repair or replace the ground cables and retest.
3. Locate the pigtail from the starter solenoid and unplug it. Using a jumper lead, hook the Red/White wire from the solenoid to the battery's positive terminal. Using another jumper lead, hook one end to the solenoid's Blue/White wire. Momentarily touch the other end of this lead to the battery's negative terminal. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the solenoid should click and the starter should begin cranking the engine. Repeat this step several times to ensure the integrity of the solenoid. If nothing happens, repair or replace the starter solenoid.
(h/t the bap3826)
4. If the solenoid checks out, hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Blue/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the starter button is not pressed. When you push in the starter button, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the starter button switch and its ground and retest.
5. Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the bike is in neutral, and/or the clutch lever is squeezed and side stand is up with the key on and the kill switch on. If not, inspect the wire coming from the starter circuit cut-off relay for any breaks or chaffing. If the wire looks good, go to the next step.
6. Remove the left-hand side cover to gain access to the starter circuit cut-off relay. Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the kill switch (starter circuit cut-off relay pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the ignition switch is on and the kill switch is on. If not, you will need to inspect, clean or replace the 20A Main fuse, the ignition switch, the kill switch, or the wiring between them. If you measure 12 volts (approx.), go to the next step.
(h/t the bap3826)
7. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Sky Blue wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the transmission is in gear. When you shift into neutral, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the neutral switch and its ground and retest. If it checks out, proceed to the next step.
8. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Black/Yellow wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the clutch lever is released and/or the side stand is down. When you squeeze the clutch lever and the side stand is up, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the clutch and side stand switches and their grounds and retest. If they check out, proceed to the next step. (Note: some models may not have a side stand switch.)
9. If all previous tests have passed, replace the starter circuit cut-off relay and try to start the bike again. If it still doesn't start, have your bike exorcised of demons by a Catholic priest and retest as there's really nothing else that would keep your bike from cranking over.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)
1. Test the voltage at the battery. It should read at least 12.5 volts. Charge and retest as needed.
2. Using an old screwdriver, short across the two large terminals at the starter solenoid. This will bypass the solenoid and allow the starter to crank the engine. If the starter doesn't crank, perform a continuity test between the negative battery terminal and the engine case. If you read no resistance (or almost no resistance), repair or replace the starter. Otherwise, repair or replace the ground cables and retest.
3. Locate the pigtail from the starter solenoid and unplug it. Using a jumper lead, hook the Red/White wire from the solenoid to the battery's positive terminal. Using another jumper lead, hook one end to the solenoid's Blue/White wire. Momentarily touch the other end of this lead to the battery's negative terminal. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the solenoid should click and the starter should begin cranking the engine. Repeat this step several times to ensure the integrity of the solenoid. If nothing happens, repair or replace the starter solenoid.
(h/t the bap3826)
4. If the solenoid checks out, hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Blue/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the starter button is not pressed. When you push in the starter button, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the starter button switch and its ground and retest.
5. Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the bike is in neutral, and/or the clutch lever is squeezed and side stand is up with the key on and the kill switch on. If not, inspect the wire coming from the starter circuit cut-off relay for any breaks or chaffing. If the wire looks good, go to the next step.
6. Remove the left-hand side cover to gain access to the starter circuit cut-off relay. Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the kill switch (starter circuit cut-off relay pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the ignition switch is on and the kill switch is on. If not, you will need to inspect, clean or replace the 20A Main fuse, the ignition switch, the kill switch, or the wiring between them. If you measure 12 volts (approx.), go to the next step.
(h/t the bap3826)
7. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Sky Blue wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the transmission is in gear. When you shift into neutral, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the neutral switch and its ground and retest. If it checks out, proceed to the next step.
8. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Black/Yellow wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the clutch lever is released and/or the side stand is down. When you squeeze the clutch lever and the side stand is up, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the clutch and side stand switches and their grounds and retest. If they check out, proceed to the next step. (Note: some models may not have a side stand switch.)
9. If all previous tests have passed, replace the starter circuit cut-off relay and try to start the bike again. If it still doesn't start, have your bike exorcised of demons by a Catholic priest and retest as there's really nothing else that would keep your bike from cranking over.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Read more...
HOW TO: Replace instrument cluster light bulbs
You see it every time you climb on your bike. It sits there providing you with a mountain of information for your riding pleasure. It does its job without complaint. But every once in awhile, something goes wrong and you're forced to open her up.
Well, that's the case for this latest installment in my "How-To" series. When I bought my bike, I noticed that the tachometer light wasn't working. It was mid April heading into summer. I was a new rider and had no plans on riding at night, so I didn't bother fixing it.
Well, times have changed. Here it is the beginning of October and I'm fighting tooth and nail for every riding day I can get. I've embraced—with open arms—the idea of riding at night. But, that burned out tachometer light has got to be fixed. I've just got to know what's going on in the engine room.
Enough of that. Let's get started with our project.
Here are the steps...
1. Remove tachometer cable (if so equipped).
2. Remove speedometer cable.
3. Remove instrument cluster mounting bolts.
4. Remove headlight from headlight bucket.
5. Unplug and fish through the wiring harnesses for the speedometer lights, the tachometer lights, (the tachometer head, if so equipped), and idiot light tree.
6. Remove the instrument cluster.
7. Remove the screws from the rear of the instrument cluster.
8. Remove the chrome housing.
9. Remove and replace the light bulbs.
10. Perform any other work that needs to be done (cleaning, lubing, etc.)
11. Reinstallation is the reverse process.
That's about it. This one's pretty easy to take care of.
Bonus Tip: if you scroll back up and look at the instrument cluster you'll see a small digital clock affixed to the tachometer. That's held there by a piece of Velcro. This allows me to remove it when I wash the bike or find myself in a heavy down pour. Underneath the head cover (that plastic piece surrounding the ignition switch) you'll find another piece of Velcro. I can stick the clock there until the wet condition passes.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)
Well, that's the case for this latest installment in my "How-To" series. When I bought my bike, I noticed that the tachometer light wasn't working. It was mid April heading into summer. I was a new rider and had no plans on riding at night, so I didn't bother fixing it.
Well, times have changed. Here it is the beginning of October and I'm fighting tooth and nail for every riding day I can get. I've embraced—with open arms—the idea of riding at night. But, that burned out tachometer light has got to be fixed. I've just got to know what's going on in the engine room.
Enough of that. Let's get started with our project.
Here are the steps...
1. Remove tachometer cable (if so equipped).
2. Remove speedometer cable.
3. Remove instrument cluster mounting bolts.
4. Remove headlight from headlight bucket.
5. Unplug and fish through the wiring harnesses for the speedometer lights, the tachometer lights, (the tachometer head, if so equipped), and idiot light tree.
6. Remove the instrument cluster.
7. Remove the screws from the rear of the instrument cluster.
8. Remove the chrome housing.
9. Remove and replace the light bulbs.
10. Perform any other work that needs to be done (cleaning, lubing, etc.)
11. Reinstallation is the reverse process.
That's about it. This one's pretty easy to take care of.
Bonus Tip: if you scroll back up and look at the instrument cluster you'll see a small digital clock affixed to the tachometer. That's held there by a piece of Velcro. This allows me to remove it when I wash the bike or find myself in a heavy down pour. Underneath the head cover (that plastic piece surrounding the ignition switch) you'll find another piece of Velcro. I can stick the clock there until the wet condition passes.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)
HOW TO: Install an aftermarket fuse box
This is a How-To on replacing the oe fuse box with a more reliable aftermarket ATO-style fuse box. Before we get started, we'll need to collect a few pieces. We'll need a fuse box. I picked mine up from the CARQUEST store where I work. It's a reboxed Littelfuse brand going by the part number 350417BP
In addition, you'll need a couple of mounting screws (8x1"), electrical tape, a couple zip-ties, a box of female insulated spade terminals, and fuses (ATO10 amp x 3 & ATO20 amp x 1).
Tools? Phillips Screwdriver and Wire Cutters/Crimpers/Strippers.
Okay... Ready? Here we go. Let's meet the patient:
My wife's '82 XJ650J Maxim.
Here are the steps...
1. Remove Seat.
2. Remove Right-Hand Access Cover exposing battery.
3. Disconnect battery.
4. Unscrew old fuse block.
5. Note fuse sizes and wire colors.
6. Pry open metal wire retainer ring at the base of oe fuse box.
7. Place zip-ties around left- and right-hand wire bundles and unwrap tape.
8. Cut wires at crimp joints.
9. Take new fuse box and position it for mounting, making sure all the wires will reach their respective terminals.
10. Strip wires and install female insulated spade terminals.
11. Tape wires bundles and attach terminals to fuse box.
12. Using the two #8x1" screws, mount the fuse box.
13. Install fuses and dust cap.
14. Reconnect the battery.
15. Install side cover and seat.
That's it. You're done!
(Editor's Note) It occurs to me that if you have a tool caddy you'll want to make sure you allow room for it
Notice how I've bent the spades a little to make the connections a little more convenient. I still need to label the fuses. From left to right, they're 10A IGNITION, 10A SIGNAL, 10A HEAD L., and 20A MAIN.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)
In addition, you'll need a couple of mounting screws (8x1"), electrical tape, a couple zip-ties, a box of female insulated spade terminals, and fuses (ATO10 amp x 3 & ATO20 amp x 1).
Tools? Phillips Screwdriver and Wire Cutters/Crimpers/Strippers.
Okay... Ready? Here we go. Let's meet the patient:
My wife's '82 XJ650J Maxim.
Here are the steps...
1. Remove Seat.
2. Remove Right-Hand Access Cover exposing battery.
3. Disconnect battery.
4. Unscrew old fuse block.
5. Note fuse sizes and wire colors.
6. Pry open metal wire retainer ring at the base of oe fuse box.
7. Place zip-ties around left- and right-hand wire bundles and unwrap tape.
8. Cut wires at crimp joints.
9. Take new fuse box and position it for mounting, making sure all the wires will reach their respective terminals.
10. Strip wires and install female insulated spade terminals.
11. Tape wires bundles and attach terminals to fuse box.
12. Using the two #8x1" screws, mount the fuse box.
13. Install fuses and dust cap.
14. Reconnect the battery.
15. Install side cover and seat.
That's it. You're done!
(Editor's Note) It occurs to me that if you have a tool caddy you'll want to make sure you allow room for it
Notice how I've bent the spades a little to make the connections a little more convenient. I still need to label the fuses. From left to right, they're 10A IGNITION, 10A SIGNAL, 10A HEAD L., and 20A MAIN.
(Written by Don Bangert Author of several How-To's and the blog, The Path Less Traveled.)